Finally, rev the engine to higher and higher RPM's to see where the advance stops increasing and record that maximum timing (which is the initial timing plus the maximum mechanical advance).Mechanical advance being active at idle is another source of idle instability. If the BB immediately starts to move off the pointer when you start increasing RPM's, then the mechanical advance IS coming in right away, and it is starting to operate too soon.If the mechanical advance is not yet coming in, then the BB will stay on the pointer (timing not changing).Nudge the throttle open a bit for maybe 100-300 RPM idle increase and watch the BB.Get up all warmed up, with your dial-back light adjusted with the BB lined up with the pointer.Do this with the vacuum advance disconnected and plugged.(AND for later discussion here, what you are measring is called 'initial timing'.)ĪND, you need to make sure that your timing at the higher idle is not being partially effected by the mechanical advance coming in at your idle RPM. I back off a few degrees, so I'd be going for 15 -16 degrees myself. It can cause issues in surging in 1st gear. Personally, I don't ever quite advance timing to the peak idle speed. If you have the lower compression ratio stock pistons, then the timing will usually have to be more advanced for peak idle speed than for a higher compression ratio. So you are finding what the difference is between best performance timing and emissions timing! If you recall all the complaining and whining about crappy engine performance in the US starting in 1972 (and earlier in CA), then this is a big part of what that was all about.īTW: One big difference in timing for peak idle RPM is a reflection of compression ratio. That can be at 0 or even slightly retarded, and as others have well said here, that was for emissions, not best performance. The BB & pointer lines up the timing at the stock factory timing. Please HELP from any and all would be greatly appreciated So what am I doing wrong or is my timing light messed up or is the carb not set properly? To get the ball and pointer to line up, I have to advance the timing light setting to 19 degrees. When I re hook the timing light and check the timing, When Iĭrive it at 3000-4000 RPM, it runs great with no pinging or missing. If I remove the timing light and time it by ear and tach RPM to 800-900, the car idles awesome. Problem is, I get the idle at 400 RPM and the engine Then IĬonnect my timing light and line the ball and pointer on the fly wheel. Gil says that is okay as most Opel owners remove the retard hose. The distributor, but plugged it on the carb. The PO removed the vacuum retard hose from Removed the vacuum advance hose from the distributor and plugged it. My new points that I got from OGTS and Gil's recommendation of setting the gap at. Okay several of you recently have helped me with my timing issue concerning my timing light that has an advance setting.
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